Lake District Itinerary: Five Glorious Days in Northern England

I fell in love with the Lake District about thirty minutes in, as we rounded a bend and I was met with a breathtaking view of towering peaks, lush green fields and quaint cottages. This five day Lake District itinerary takes you on a different hike each day with a few delicious treats thrown in. I hope it will help you fall in love with this corner of the world as much as I did. 

The Lake District, or the Lakes as it's often called, is England's largest national park and one of the country's most popular holiday destinations. I'd always wanted to visit after hearing friends rave about it and seeing countless stunning photos online. I'm happy to report that you can believe the hype; the Lake District lives up to every superlative description you've heard. 

Getting to the Lake District

The Lake District is an excellent destination for a road trip as a car gives you access to more remote places that you wouldn't be able to reach by public transport.

Having said that, it's not impossible to do a trip to the Lakes by public transport and this could be a good option during peak holiday season when congestion can be a problem. If you prefer not to drive, check out Wanderlust Chloe's car-free itinerary for some inspiration.  

If, like us, you're planning a Lake District road trip, here are some approximate driving times from different parts of the UK.

• York - 3 hours
• Manchester - 2 hours
• London - 6 hours
• Edinburgh - 3.5 hours
• Cardiff - 5.5 hours
• Brighton - 6.5 hours

Getting around the Lake District by car

There are some gorgeous drives in the Lake District, but you do need to be prepared for single-lane driving and some potentially hair-raising routes - we'll get to that later! If you get car sick, be aware that there are lots of winding roads that are sure to bring on nausea. My tips as a long-term travel sickness sufferer are to take travel sickness medicine, eat a decent meal before driving and have some sweets on hand. 

The Lake District is a popular holiday destination and traffic can be bad in the high season. We visited in late May over the bank holiday weekend, but as we had chosen to base ourselves away from the most touristy areas, there wasn't too much traffic to contend with. 

where to stay in the Lake District

As the Lake District is England's largest national park it's unlikely that you'll be able to see it all in one trip. I recommend choosing a couple of locations to base yourself in and exploring those areas fully.

We started our trip in Coniston and then headed west to Santon Bridge. I chose these places because they're a little further away from the most famous areas, such as Windermere and Ambleside. 

There are plenty of hotels and bed and breakfasts in the Lakes, but due to the ongoing pandemic, we opted for Airbnbs. Our Airbnb in Coniston was a bit of a splurge but totally worth it and we balanced it out with a very reasonable Airbnb in Santon Bridge. 

tips for gluten-free travellers

I found a decent amount of gluten-free options in the Lake District but I also came prepared with gluten-free treats and snacks just in case, and we did a lot of cooking in our Airbnbs. I wanted to have a substantial breakfast before our long walks so I stocked up on croissants and chocolate twists from Manna Dew. Manna Dew is a 100% gluten-free bakery in London and you can order online for collection or delivery. Their pastries are as close as it's possible to get to an authentic flaky pastry and anyone who's gluten-free MUST try them. 

It's important to say that not all the food I ate in the Lake District was necessarily coeliac safe as nowhere I ate was 100% gluten-free. We also limited how often we ate out due to the pandemic. For a more in-depth round-up of where to find gluten-free food in the Lake District, check out this post by Endless Distances.  

how to plan hikes in the Lake District

We downloaded the OS Maps app for our Lake District trip and found it to be indispensable. You can sign up for a two-week free trial or buy a monthly (£2.99) or annual (£23.99) subscription.  

You can use the app to search for ready-made routes or plot your own. The maps are downloadable so you don't have to worry about losing phone signal. 

This is very much an outdoorsy itinerary, perfect for nature lovers and hikers. Most of the hikes are suitable for people with a moderate level of fitness and they all offer the kind of magnificent views the Lake District is famous for. 

Thanks to the walking focus and outdoor dining and takeaway options, this is also a pandemic friendly itinerary.

In case you want a break from walking or you want to have some rainy day ideas up your sleeve, I've listed other things to do around Coniston and Santon Bridge at the end. 

Please note that my five day itinerary doesn't include travel to and from the Lake District. You may need to add a day either side, depending on your schedule and where you're travelling from.

day 1 - Skelwith bridge and elterwater

We started our Lake District adventure with a beautiful circular walk from Skelwith Bridge (10 minute drive from Coniston) which takes you to the crystal clear waters of Elterwater. 

We were lucky to have a friend and his adorable dog be our guides for this walk, but you can easily follow in our footsteps by searching for the same route on the OS Maps app. When searching, enter Skelwith Bridge as the location and filter by walks of around 5 miles in length. You'll get lots of results but it's the "Elterwater Circuit" walk that you want.  

This circuit is an excellent introduction to the Lakes as it is very varied, taking in waterfalls, woods, open fields and one of the national park's namesake lakes. On top of all that, there's a lovely pub towards the end of the route, The Britannia Inn, which has lots of indoor and outdoor seating.

Alternatively, you could stop at Chester's by the River in Skelwith Bridge, which has a cafe, shop and bakery. Chester's serves vegetarian and vegan food and has some gluten-free options, although recent reviews suggest there may be fewer gluten-free options now. 

We started on the south side of the River Brathay, but you could do this walk in either direction. About a quarter of the way into the walk, you come to Colwith Force, a waterfall tucked away in some secluded woods. From here to The Britannia Inn, it's a pleasant ramble with no steep inclines. 

After lunch or a drink at The Britannia Inn, follow the paved walkway along the river and look out for Herdwick sheep (a native breed to the Lakes) on the other side. You'll soon reach Elterwater, where you can take a minute to relax or paddle, before completing the walk with close up views of Skelwith Force. 

Skelwith Bridge and elterwater circuit

Difficulty level: Easy/Moderate

DISTANCE: 5.3 miles/8.5 km

TIME: Approx 2.5 hours

Highlights: Varied scenery including waterfalls and Elterwater lake 

TIPS: Look for the "Elterwater Circuit" route in the OS Maps app

day 2 - old man of coniston

After easing yourself in on Day 1, why not tackle a more demanding route on your second day in the Lakes? The Old Man of Coniston is an 803 metre high fell (the name for a mountain or hill in the Lake District, derived from Old Norse) that was once used for slate and copper mining. 

Our Airbnb was perfectly located, with the trail starting just up the road. Wherever you're staying in Coniston, head uphill out of the village towards Coniston Copper Mines. Look out for a gate on your left and cross the stream, then follow the trail to your right through some fields. The cottages you can see from here were once home to people who worked in the copper mines. If you're wondering what the large mounds of rock are, these are spoil heaps. Of all the rock that was mined, relatively little copper was found, and the rest was discarded and left in large piles that we can still see today. 

The start of the walk isn't too strenuous, but that soon changes! The higher up we got, the more breaks we took to catch our breath take in the views. The views are incredible though; undulating fells as far as the eye can see, broken only by the blue sliver of Coniston Water. 

The remains of a slate mine further up provide another excuse for a rest and if you do this walk on one of the hottest days of the year like we did, you'll be grateful for it.

It seemed to take forever to get from the mine to Low Water, a tarn (small mountain lake) at the bottom of the final stretch to the summit. I had told my friend who showed us around on our first day that we were planning to climb the Old Man and his words started echoing in my head, "There's still ages to go after you get to the lake..."

He wasn't wrong and the last part of the climb was the hardest, with lots of uneven rocky steps and a little scrambling at the very top. The trail also gets narrower here so you might have to wait for groups who are descending, to pass. This wasn't a problem for me; I'll take any excuse to rest on a steep ascent!  

Once you make it to the top you'll be rewarded with 360-degree views of the surrounding peaks including Scafell Pike, England's highest mountain. 

We took the same route back to Coniston, enjoying the views all the more on the way down. Alternatively, you could make this into a circular walk. 

This is a well known and popular route. Although we used the OS Maps app at the start, the route soon became obvious thanks to all the other walkers heading in the same direction. 

Old Man of Coniston Climb                                                                                                   

Difficulty level: Moderate/Difficult

Most of the walk is uphill with some very steep sections. An alternative shorter route would be to turn back once you reach Low Water. 

DISTANCE: 6 miles/9.7 km

TIME: Approx 3.5 hours

Highlights: Panoramic views from the summit

Tips: Take a picnic to have by Low Water or at the summit

day 3 - Ambleside, Hardknott Pass and santon bridge

ambleside and Stock Ghyll Force

The Lake District is undoubtedly a hikers paradise, but it's nice to have a change of pace sometimes. If that means visiting a town with a traditional chocolate shop and a cute bakery selling gluten-free apple pies, all the better. That's exactly what we found in Ambleside, a 20-minute drive from Coniston. We still got our nature fix though, with a short walk from the town centre to Stock Ghyll Force waterfall. 

We parked at Miller Bridge Town Centre car park and then walked through White Platt's Recreation Ground to Ambleside's quaint centre. As it was still early, we decided to head straight to the waterfalls to work up an appetite for lunch. Stock Ghyll Force is about 20 minutes from the centre of Ambleside and the walk takes you through some peaceful woods. There are red markers pointing the way to the falls and lots of different viewing platforms to enjoy them from. 

We didn't need the OS app today - Google Maps worked just fine, or you can look out for the sign to the waterfalls on the corner by Doi Intanon Thai restaurant. 

Stock Ghyll Force Walk

Difficulty level: Easy

This is a short walk that's popular with families. The ground is uneven in places and it can also be muddy, so don't wear your nicest trainers!  

Distance: 1.2 miles/1.9 km

Time: Approx 45 minutes

I can't remember the last time I had apple pie so I was excited to discover that The Apple Pie Cafe does a gluten-free version. I enjoyed it the only way I know how - served warm with lashings of custard. Sadly, I don't have a photo of this much-anticipated pie. I dropped it on the way back to the car, in a heart-in-the-mouth moment that could have so easily ruined my day.

The Apple Pie Cafe describes their pie as "gluten avoidant" and can't guarantee that there's no cross-contamination, so this might not be one for coeliacs. When I visited, I was able to order online and pick up from a hatch at the side of the shop and it looks like this click and collect service is still running. Otherwise, you can get takeaway from the bakery or eat in at their cafe. 

We hadn't made a reservation for lunch but luckily we were able to grab a table outside at the Giggling Goose Cafe. That luck continued as I spotted gluten-free pizza bases on the menu. There's lots of seating in the Giggling Goose's garden and it's in a prime location right by the river.

ambleside to santon bridge via hardknott pass (if you dare!)

We've never driven any particularly hairy mountain roads in the UK, so it didn't cross my mind to do any further due diligence than putting our route from Ambleside to Santon Bridge into Google Maps. As it turned out, the route took us over Hardknott Pass, which is the joint steepest road in England. Hardknott Pass has a gradient of about 33% and the fact that it's a single lane road makes things even more interesting! The scenery is beautiful here and depending on the kind of roads you're used to driving, it might not be a problem at all. If you're an inexperienced driver or bad with heights, I would suggest taking an alternative route and sticking to the A593 instead. 

Besides the sweaty palm inducing drive up Hardknott Pass, the route from Ambleside to Santon Bridge is spectacular. If you're a Lord of the Rings fan, you'll feel like you've fallen into the Shire as you wind your way through rolling green hills dotted with sheep. In fact, at the most Shire-esque point of the drive, a song from the LOTR soundtrack came on Spotify. Was Frodo there with us in spirit? I like to think so!

Our second Airbnb was an affordable studio in what was once a stable. We also had access to the Orchard Garden which was the perfect spot for a glass of wine in the evening. The host, Maria, has a wealth of knowledge about the area and can recommend lots of walks and things to do. 

day 4 - wastwater

Wastwater, England's deepest lake, is an easy 10-minute drive from Santon Bridge with parking on the roadside or in small car parks. It's a stunning place for a picnic and for paddle boarding and kayaking. Or you can attempt the circular walk around the entire lake.

Although most of the walk is flat and straightforward, to complete the circuit you need to cross the Wasdale Screes, an area of loose boulders on the east bank of the lake. We started the circuit on the west side so we could see the Screes opposite us across the water. From that position, it looked like there had been a landslide or something, and I was trying to figure out where the trail could be.

As we got closer, we passed through a gate with a cautionary sign for the boulder fields on it. I have run scared from many cautionary signs, including one for killer hornets in Japan, but curiosity got the better of me this time. That didn't stop me from pestering Richard with questions he couldn't possibly answer, though - What's a boulder field? Do you think it will be hard? Do you think we should turn back?

The first boulder fields were easy to traverse and they were broken up by grassy stretches, but the large boulder field at the southern end was tough. There is no clear path here, just the odd pile of cairns marking a rough route. This is the section where people often get into trouble and I would suggest skipping the circular walk if the weather is bad, you have a large dog, or you are very new to hiking.

I'll be honest, we hadn't done much research into this walk so we didn't know what to expect from the boulder fields. We were lucky that we had perfect weather and we are somewhat experienced hikers, but that southern stretch of large boulders almost broke me! It seemed to go on forever and the gaps between boulders were much larger, making my progress slower and more frustrating. 

Richard is a bit of a mountain goat and it made me feel better having someone who was so surefooted with me. I, on the other hand, turned into some kind of ungainly mountain crab, staying low and using my hands way more than was necessary. 

Towards the end of the large boulder field, we saw a family heading towards us. The mother and daughter had climbed a bit too high and got stuck on the loose rock. They were starting to panic and Richard had to offer a steady hand to help them get through the worst of it. As they shakily made their way down, the mother said, "You don't get this down south!" I grew up in East Sussex and can confirm that terrain in places like the South Downs is completely different and very tame in comparison. But that's what makes travel, even in your home country, so thrilling; you never know what you're going to find. 

I don't say all this to put you off, but it's important to know what this walk entails. I know it would be easier to understand if I had more photos or videos, but I was concentrating way too hard for that!

Wastwater Circular Walk

Difficulty level: Difficult

This walk is only difficult due to the Wastwater Screes and is otherwise easy to follow and mostly flat.

Distance: 9.4 miles/15.2 km 

Time: Approx 4 hours, but probably longer thanks to the Screes

Highlights: Breathtaking views, sense of accomplishment if you make it through the Screes!

Tips: There is a campsite on the north side of Wastwater that has toilets and a shop. Make sure you have the right footwear for the Screes and don't climb up too high as the rocks are looser there. Bring plenty of water and only attempt the Screes in good weather. 

day 5 - Irton Pike and pub dinner

If you tackled the Screes on Day 4, I recommend having only two things on your Day 5 itinerary; a short nearby walk and the rest of the day in the pub. 

The Irton Pike climb is short and uncrowded with epic views for relatively little effort. As it's not one of the more famous walks in the Lakes, it was a bit harder to plan, but I found this to get us started.

If you're coming from Santon Bridge, and if my memory serves me correctly, the lay-by you park in is the second on the left. The start of the trail is next to the car park, to the right as you're looking at the road. Follow this uphill until you reach a narrow level track heading left. Take this track and continue almost to the end, then look out for a trail to the right that will take you to the top of Irton Pike. This trail is a little hard to spot, but if you reach a wide stony path, you've gone too far.

The trail is steep from here to Irton Pike, but it doesn't take long until you're at the top taking in the views. From here, take the trail on the other side of the summit and follow it through a wooded area. At the end, you'll reach a fence with a stile. Cross the stile and walk a little further for a view towards Wastwater. 

Retrace your steps and head back over the stile. Once you reach a fork, take the trail to your left instead of going back the way you came. This takes you on a gentle descent until you reach the track where you turned left at the start of the walk, and then the car park. 

Irton Pike

Difficulty level: Easy/Moderate

This is a short walk but with a steep ascent.

Distance: 2.2 miles/3.5 km

Time: Approx 1 hour

HIGHLIGHTS: Views of Wastwater, very quiet route.

Now for the quintessential end to any British holiday. The Bridge Inn has an excellent food menu and gluten-free dishes are clearly marked. I finished our trip with bangers and mash which, after all that walking, tasted like it was sent from heaven. The Bridge Inn is a popular spot so be sure to book a table if you want to sit inside or arrive early if you're hoping for an outdoor table. 

other things to do in and around consiton

• Experience Coniston Water by motor boat, paddle board, kayak or canoe with Coniston Boating Centre
• Take a cruise on the Steam Yacht Gondola
• Learn about the history of Coniston at The Ruskin Museum
• Explore Brantwood House and gardens, former home of John Ruskin
• Visit the Beatrix Potter Gallery in Hawkshead

other things to do around santon bridge

• Take a ride on the Ravenglass and Eskdale Railway
• Explore historic St Catherine's Church
• Visit Eskdale Mill

I was bowled over by the Lake District and this five-day itinerary had the perfect balance of adventure, relaxing in nature, and good food. I did a lot of travel in the UK last year but I found that the Lakes was hard to top. It truly is one of the most beautiful places I've had the privilege of visiting.

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