One Day in Harajuku and Shibuya

This itinerary, which takes you from one of Tokyo's most important Shinto shrines to the much-photographed scramble crossing in Shibuya, is the perfect introduction to Japan's vibrant capital. When I lived in Tokyo I always took visitors to this area on their very first day, so this is a tried and tested itinerary!

Harajuku is known as the fashion and youth culture district and is heavily associated with kawaii culture (think Hello Kitty and Lolita fashion). In fact, I would say that Takeshita-dōri, the most famous street in Harajuku, is pretty much a living definition of kawaii culture. I actually find the Takeshita-dōri crowds quite off-putting, but thankfully there are several places where you can take a breather and forget you're in one of the world's most densely populated cities. 

The walk from Harajuku to the heart of Shibuya takes you down tree-lined Omotesandō, home to high-end fashion stores and interesting modern architecture, and through a maze of trendy backstreets. I love window shopping and cafe-hopping in these backstreets, it's the perfect way to relax before you reach the bright lights of Shibuya and the iconic scramble crossing. Shibuya is great for a night out with plenty of restaurants, izakayas and bars to choose from. 

In this part of Tokyo you can start your day in the grounds of a peaceful historic shrine and be eating cute animal-shaped ice-cream in a matter of minutes. You could say it's a case of the sublime to the ridiculous, but I love that these two very different sides of Japanese culture can live side by side. It's exactly this contrast that made me fall in love with Tokyo in the first place and is the reason it remains one of my favourite cities. 

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harajuku to omotesandō

Take the Yamanote line to Harajuku station and either head straight to Meiji Jingu shrine or have an early lunch at Afuri. I like the ramen at Afuri because they have some really interesting flavours, including Yuzu Rātanmen which is spicy and citrusy, and they also do vegan ramen. I'm not vegan but traditional ramen is sometimes a bit too heavy and meaty for me so this light vegan ramen is a tasty alternative. Even gluten-free travellers are catered for here thanks to the konnyaku men option, a noodle made of Japanese yam root. The only downside is that this branch in particular is very popular with tourists and there is often a long line. 

Built in 1920, Meiji Jingu is a relatively new shrine and is dedicated to Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken who passed away in 1912 and 1914 respectively. The shrine itself is simplistically beautiful but it's the grounds that I really love. An impressive wooden torii gate marks the entrance and the whole area is surrounded by a lush dense forest. I would recommend giving yourself the best part of an hour at Meiji Jingu as it's quite a large area and there's plenty to see. 

Hot tip - Don't leave Meiji Jingu the way you came in, instead head to the left of the main shrine, walk past the toilets and then take a left, following a quiet forested path back to the main entrance.

Now it's time to brave Takeshita-dōri which is almost always crowded. It's not a long street though, so even if you hate crowds, the ordeal won't last long and it's definitely something you should see while in Tokyo!

If you're looking for some cheap souvenirs, there's a big Daiso (100 yen shop) on Takeshita-dōri. This is also the place to spot the latest cute food trend (just look for the ridiculously long queue), last time I was there it was rainbow coloured candy floss. 

A good place to stop for an "only in Tokyo" snack is Eiswelt Gelato at the end of Takeshita-dōri. This shop sells animal shaped ice-cream - you can choose from a frog, pig, chicken, teddy, rabbit or unicorn! Surprisingly, I have never seen a long queue here and the ice-cream is actually pretty good, with flavours including green tea, mint, strawberry milk and birthday cake. Eiswelt Gelato also has five dairy-free flavours and gluten-free travellers can opt for a cup instead of a cone. 

Just around the corner from Eiswelt Gelato is Tokyu Plaza shopping centre which is worth a look for its unique mirrored entrance and its 6th-floor rooftop garden. The rooftop garden is a great place to chill and enjoy the view, especially at sunset. On a clear day you can even see the top of Mount Fuji from here.

omotesandō to shibuya

Most of the shops on Omotesandō are well out of my price range but it's a nice place for a stroll, especially if you're into modern architecture. Oriental Bazaar (reopening in 2022) on Omotesandō is a good place to do some souvenir shopping. It's a little touristy but they sell some lovely things and have an extensive range of Japanese products - from daruma dolls, magnets, postcards and origami paper to sake sets, bonsai tree kits and yukata. What's really great about Oriental Bazaar is they often have English descriptions explaining the meaning behind traditional handicrafts. Nearby Kiddy Land is also a fun place to shop. There's a section devoted to Ghibli, Snoopy, Rilakkuma and many other characters popular in Japan.

Avoid the crowds and head to Shibuya down any of the side streets off of Omotesandō, just make sure you're on the same side of Omotesandō as Oriental Bazaar. There are tons of cool cafes and boutiques, I always find somewhere new whenever I'm in the area. As you get closer to Shibuya the streets becomes more residential and there are some amazing apartment blocks and houses to admire. Whenever I'm here I imagine what it would be like to live in one of these swanky places, and how much the rent must be! 

Once you reach Shibuya it should be about time for a drink and Grandfather's is a good place to start. This low-key basement bar has a cosy atmosphere and reasonably priced drinks. 

There are loads of options for dinner in Shibuya but one of my favourites is Kushikatsu Tanaka. Kushikatsu is panko-coated deep-fried morsels of meat and vegetables served on sticks with a dipping sauce. The service at Kushikatsu Tanaka is friendly and fast and the food is cheap and tasty. There are two locations in Shibuya and both are easily found on Google Maps. Gluten-free travellers should head to one of the many atmospheric izakayas, such as Toritake, which specialises in yakitori. Order your yakitori with shio (salt) instead of tare (sauce) to avoid soy sauce. 

If you want to continue the bar crawl, Bar Ishinohana has incredible cocktails but it's worth booking ahead to guarantee a seat. The cocktails aren't cheap but they're some of the best I've had in Tokyo, with a focus on seasonal ingredients and original recipes. If it's still on the menu, I highly recommend the yuzu matcha martini. 

Another good drinking spot is Nonbei Yokochō, a series of alleyways close to Shibuya station filled with tiny izakayas, most of which only have a few seats. If you like to have some control over the playlist, head to Analog Record Bar and flip through their vinyl collection. You can choose a track or two to play, albeit for an additional fee. 

Hot tip - Strike a pose at Purikura no Mecca. Purikura photo booths are a lot of fun and the printed stickers make fantastic souvenirs. The photo booths are separated into two sections - one area for taking the photos and one for editing them. You use the touchscreen in the "studio" area to choose how many people are going to be in the photos and you will then be shown a series of poses to copy. When you've finished, move into the editing area where you can add writing and all kinds of weird and wonderful accessories to your photos. Some purikura places even have costumes you can wear and areas to do your make-up and straighten your hair. However, given that these photo booths smooth your skin, enlarge your eyes and chisel your cheekbones, there's really no need! 

Before heading home, make sure you experience Shibuya scramble crossing. I recommend joining the throng of people by walking across and also getting a view from the passageway that connects Shibuya Mark City and Shibuya station. Alternatively, continue bar hopping or head to one of the many karaoke joints and see where the night takes you.  

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